Monday 30 July 2012

The last couple of days

After 5 days, I hit the wall. I was only doing 17km but it may as well have been through treacle. I don´t mind telling you that I actually shed a tear over the pain!! Evil bag. Evil boots. Evil boring road.

The problem, apart from everything catching up with me physically, was that the road was endless. The only thing of note that I passed were two farms. There were a couple of wells but they had run dry and the picnic benches were attracting flies. I have been bitten to death. I´m all about stopping for a break every 2 hours!!

When I saw a church on the horizon I was sure it must be a mirage, but then as I passed over the ridge of the hill I saw an albergue woo hoo. An albergue with a swimming pool, get in!! Whilst there I got chatting to this really cool Californian dude from SF. We got talking about why we were doing the camino and to my surprise he said he was going to train as a Jesuit priest!! I tried to hide my shock of course! He said he had been working in finance for 10 years and had become sick of the race for more and more money. Some absolute gobshite from Brum kept butting in on our interesting conversation to tell us what life is really all about and what religion is etc. So patronising!! He also thought he was being hilarious to call me Shrek´s wife. Bitch please.

I slept so well and I have definitely become used to the snorers. I have trained myself to think that they are lullabies lol. The women are the worst. Animals I tell you.

This morning I wasn´t sure how far I would get but after a few stretches and a decent meal last night (including warm yoghurt a la casa, nom nom (!)), I set off under the stars. I have done 35k today and I´m so bloody proud of myself.

I have arrived in Leon this afternoon and I have noticed, again, some nasty burns on the back of my legs. I am tanning on only the back of my body, as obviously I continually facing west. I have picked up some aloe vera and factor 50 so that should do the trick. Tomorrow I am going to post home 1kg of things. Every little helps.

Leon is a beautiful city and it doesn´t even realise it! The Cathedral is pretty breathtaking inside. I got myself an ice cream (actually not a patch on Frederick´s) and enjoyed the street entertainment.

Tonight I am staying in a Benedictine Monistery, ran by nuns. They run it like an army with walkie talkies which I find hilarious. It is only €5 including breakfast. However, there is a curfew of 9.30pm.

I was walking about the old town earlier and as the albergue is extremely difficult to find, I managed to get lost. I asked some local police the way and they didn´t know! They realised I was on my own and so they gave me a ride home! I can only imagine what the nuns were thinking as I rocked up in the back of the car jejeje. I had better so as it is nearly 9.30. I plan to stay in Leon a while longer tomorrow.


Sunday 29 July 2012

Monastery 1076

Lots of monasteries sprang up along the way, as the pilgrimage took off in Europe.




















Saturday 28 July 2012

To Carrión de los Condes 22k

This is turning out to be a very special trip. I have been touched my people's kindness and sheer generosity, peregrinos and locals alike. It is true that you never walk alone! *

Today I walked 22k with an Australian, Matt, that I only met at breakfast (coffee and cake is the norm in the albergues). He normally walks 40k so he kept me at a fantastic pace. It is strange how you.cam have such intense conversations with a stranger!

I was all geared up to walk with him and some other guys to the next stop, which was 17k without any water fountains/shops/roads/villages. Everyone was panicking about this stage and so most were going to do.it tomorrow. I think I.just wanted to push myself to do 37k.

So I set off slightly ahead. The mind was willing but my god the body was weeeeak! I stopped for a break outside Carrión, opposite a beautiful monastarey that had been turned into a hotel. I fantasised about staying there. Just as I sometimes fantasise about getting the bus jeje.

Further on.I.was really not in a good place after only 5k and suddenly I had a nosebleed. I realised I would have to turn back. I was absolutely gutted to lose my group as we all for on so well and will probably never catch up wirh them.

The walk back was horrendous and u realised I had been extremely lucky to have had this nosebleed! I really believe in fate and my body was just saying no.

So... guess where I am staying tonight?! Yup, the hotel! I know it's only my 4th day but I needed a proper place where I could chill, have a bath etc and I couldn't walk any further into the town.

It is only a 3* but all I can say is WOW!! See my next post for the pics.

I have loved this evening, it haa been bliss to walk around without a rucksack. I love how everyone suddenly comes out after their siesta and it is really balmy. Lush!

Ps another thing I love is that there is a real range in ages, there are no gap-yah kids on this trip.

*I was searching for a walking stick today and a friend of a friend heard and he immediately insisted I take his!

To Fromista 27km

After a strenuous climb out of Castrojeriz, it was all downhill from here. The Camino so far has been full of some very special moments and getting to the top of the mountain just as dawn broke was certainly one of them.

I wasn't to know but the Germans and Dutch ppl climbing behind me were to go on to become good friends later in the day.

Again, we descended into fields of sunflowers and it always makes me smile when they turn to face the sun.

I am typing this on my phone by the way so apologies for the poor grammar! My pet hate as well, jeje.

Next, a short pitstop at a gurgling fountain, where I befriended a British man, Richard (wow, someone from the UK at last!) And we enjoyed the view back over the plains. Unfortunately, he was to go on and injure himself by jumping over a ditch today. One mistake and your whole trip could be over.

Everyone is in some form of pain. But as they say, "it's not what's going on down there, but what's going on up here"! So true.

At the fountain there was a man selling my breakfast of fruit and cafe con leche. It was donativo, like a lot of things on the route, it was donation only. The people are full of kindness.

For my second breakfast (!), I chatted to a french man in his return to La Rochelle (he knew André's bistro!). I cannot imagine getting to Santiago then walking back!

I then met a nice Dutch guy called Jon and he introduced me to magdelena from Hamburg. We all hit it off and kept each other going for tve last 10k. I find the last k into your resting point to be the most difficult. Again, everything is psychological!

I had planned to go further than 25k but man it was hard in the end. In fact, the last 2 days I have been hobbling about like an old lady. TBH my body 'kin aches all over! Waaaay worse than a day of skiing. I couldn't even get down from my top bunk for 3 hours yesterday jajaja. Luckily I was able to chat to some lovely french ppl who were retired teachers from Nantes! They do a part of the Camino each year. This is quite common.

In the albergue (7euro) I met a really interesting dutch guy, Mel (training to be a you know what, can't bloody get away from them!), who had cycled from Holland and was heading to Portugal to learn to surf. Many ppl want to continue to Portugal. We went to a guitar concert in a church, an american guy was using his guitar to pay for his trip.

Another man.is apparently going round with a donkey and people give him money to pet it. I am going to suggest this to my uncle as he keeps donkeys.

I have been trying to get into some of the beautiful churches but they are all closed up in the afternoons. I guess priests have to have their siesta too! Also, they charge a euro to go in, talk about commmercailisation! I think in 5 years' time the Camino will be extremely busy and nothing will be donativo.

Friday 27 July 2012

Día 3

So last night I was in Castrojeriz and I shared a room with a Dutch couple and a south Korean guy. These seem to be the main nationalities on the route.

The couple were on bike and this is something I would like to do next year as it looks a lot easier (Either that or st jean to Burgos) But then again they don't get to chat to anybody and this really makes the trip.

The Korean was a conscript in the army for 2 years, working as an officer teaching soldiers about North Korea. I have net ppl from all walks of life!

Today I did only 25km and I wanted to go further but my feet were saying no! If it's not one complaint, it's another! Feet, shoulders, knees, toes, knees and toes. However when you are walking alone it is easy to get lost in your thoughts and even forget you are walking, never mind carrying a bag!

By the way P20 is not infallible, mum! I have horrible burns on my shoulders!

Today I heard about an 80 yr old man who is going back and forth on the camino over and over, in the hope that he will die on it. The problem is he is getting fitter and less likely to die all tve time!



Thursday 26 July 2012

Primer dia

So I was all packed and ready to go. I thought I had packed light with the absolute bare minimum (7kg, 2 changes of clothes) but this was still pretty damn heavy to shoulders unused to anything!

Getting to Madrid was no problem but of course my bus from there to Burgos just had to break down in the middle of nowhere! We sat outside it for 90mins while a replacement turned up. Not a happy bunny!

I spent the next morning pottering about the city. It was 25th July so everyone was going to be celebrating the Xacobeo and I was tempted to stay on another night as it was getting late (I was also celebrating Claire's birthday!) in the day, but I had a chat with myself and remembered why I had come. To walk dammit!

So I set off after a delicious breakfast of bocodillo con queso y jamón which I have now had for 4 meals! I know I am giving too much detail for a blog but hey, you can stop reading! I am doing this as a diary.
My shoulders were already hurting as I was recovering from a deep tissue massage. It was 32c with no shade and I was starting in the hottest part of the camino, the meseta which is a kind of wilderness in the hills. Most people get the bus straight from Burgos to León. Cheats!

Anyhoo it was tough and I wondered why I was putting myself through this! A sandstorm blew up and then there was a proper storm just as I arrived at my village Rabe de las Calzados. It was like a scene from a film as I raced what looked like a twister into the centre! My albergue was ace though and I met some lovely people. I've not met any brits yet, which is great as I can practice my French and Spanish. Loving it! People presume you know nothing just because you are so white you must be English. Very satisfying to surprise them jeje!

I heard a tale of a man from Transylvania who is making his way round by cooking for peregrinos.  Apparently you can tell he is from Transylvania because he wears white sleeves. I dont remember that in Dracula.

In Rabé there was also a WEIRD albergue in the village that 2 Irish girls had a bloody lucky escape from! The woman running it was a total nutjob who had taped up all the sockets and insisted they lie in binliners and put any 'textiles' in another binliner. Very creepy house with a 3 storey high 'museum' of religious artefacts. The woman was psychotic (say this in an Irish accent, it sounds way funnier!) and insisted they join mass in the house with 3 priests.

Anyway I decided i had to get photographic evidence so I rocked up to the museo and pretended to be interested. To be honest her husband was v sweet but as soon as she looked at me I regretted making eye contact! She looked very disturbed and I felt a chill. Shudder*

She demanded to know why I was staying at a rival albergue. Was it money? Was it for something else? I tried to sidestep out but her husband had to show me a covered 8foot well in the house. As I scrambled out of there she shouted YOU STAY THERE YOU LOSE. Aaagh I ran to the bar to show my friends the photos. They are to follow.

Apart from that the locals have been extremely kind and I have been given a religious medal (!) to wear and a concha (seashell) which lets people know I'm a pilgrim.

If you reached the end of that post well done you.




Burgos cathedral

I have most of my photos on my normal camera so I hope to do a proper update soon.

The weather is glorious- but not so pleasurable with a backpack 2 pairs of socks and hiking boots on! This morning I was up at dawn about 530 to get some cool walking in. I have just stopped about 4pm and I'm in a town called castojeriz. I did about 27km which I'm pleased with as it is only my second day walking. I am sure there is such a thing as walkers high! I feel pretty euphoric- after my shower, certainly not before.

I should really have recounted my first day in my first post so I.will do that now.


Sunday 22 July 2012

What is the Camino de Santiago?

What kinds of people walk the Camino de Santiago? All kinds of people walk the Camino de Santiago! According to the records of the Pilgrims' Welcome Office in Santiago de Compostela, 145,877 people completed the pilgrimage in 2011. Of them, 83% arrived on foot, 17% arrived by bicycle and a few hearty souls rode horseback. Pilgrims came from Spain (54%), Germany (10%), Italy (7%), France (5%), Portugal (3%), the US (1.7%), Canada (1.5%), the UK (1.2%) and over 100 other countries. A little over 9% were 18 years of age or younger, 35% were between 19 and 35 years old, 50% were between 36 and 65 years old, and just over 5% were older than 65 years.

I'm not Catholic. Can I walk the Camino? While the Camino de Santiago is based in Catholic lore and tradition, one does not need to be Catholic to walk. Indeed one does not need to even be religious or spiritual. About the only time this will be a question is in the Oficina de Acogida de Peregrinos in Santiago when you appear to obtain your compostela. You will be asked your motivation for walking and those who do not state "religious or spiritual" as their reason for making the pilgrimage will be offered another document, a certificado, to commemorate their having completed the Camino. While many will walk the Camino for out and out religious reasons, others will look on it from a more secular viewpoint. A pilgrimage, after all, is not necessarily religious. Consider the throngs who take a pilgrimage to Graceland!

How difficult is it to walk the Camino? Every peregrino will have a different answer for this question. The Camino is not a Himalayan expedition, but it is not a Sunday stroll through the park either. On the Camino francés, the terrain from St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago will include crossing a lower ridge of the Pyrenees, walking on farm roads through areas of rolling vineyards and across the meseta, the high, flat plains of Castilla-León, climbing and descending several mountain passes with altitudes of up to 5,000 ft (1,500 m) and finally traversing the forested river valleys of Galicia. Weather varies according to the season and the local climate zone, and can range from extremely hot and dry to cool and wet to cold and snowy. Camino veterans will say that physical preparation is absolutely necessary. It is one thing to take a hike of 25 km on a nice afternoon, but it is quite another matter to repeat this hike day after day for a month. Those who have had previous camping, backpacking or hiking experience will be a step ahead. That said, there are still multitudes of pilgrims who begin their Camino without having done any physical preparation at all. Carrying a pack will pretty much be a necessity but because there are support services all along the way—places to stay and eat—carrying a large pack is not at all necessary. In fact, packing light may be the most important ingredient for a successful Camino.

How easy is it to follow the route? In Spain, especially on the Camino francés, the entire route is extremely well marked with yellow arrows. Sometimes these are crudely brushed onto a wall or post, sometimes they are 'formally' created signs. You will always encounter them at division points or intersections in the road or path. Following the Camino through the larger cities is probably the most problematical issue, as the arrows can tend to get lost in the clutter of other signs and sometimes you may walk straight ahead for many blocks after which there will be one arrow pointing left or right. Still, if you go astray, usually a 'local' will quickly straighten you out. And you can always use "¿Dónde va el Camino?" ("Where does the Camino go?") or something like that.

Which route should I follow? There are many routes, many Caminos, to Santiago de Compostela. In the Middle Ages, pilgrims began their pilgrimage from their front door, whether that was in Jaca or Sevilla, Paris or Ostabat, Brussels or Vienna: there were as many routes as there were pilgrims. The best known route today, the one that most people mean then they talk about "the Camino", is the Camino francés, which crosses the north of Spain from the French border through Pamplona, Burgos and León all the way to Santiago. But many other routes have been marked and are available to modern pilgrims, starting both inside Spain and beyond its borders. Inside Spain, other well known Caminos include the Vía de la Plata which begins in Sevilla and passes through Mérida, Cáceres and Salamanca; the Camino primitivo which begins in Oviedo and passes through Lugo before meeting the Camino francés shortly before Santiago; the Camino del Norte which begins in Irún at the French border and follows the northern coast before turning inland near Ribadeo. There are now also recognized and well marked routes in France, Portugal, Germany, Switzerland, Belgium, Austria … almost everywhere in Europe.

Where should I start? Once you have decided on which route you wish to follow, you will have to choose a starting point. Yes, you can start anywhere you want. In 2009 on the Camino francés, about 20% of the pilgrims who eventually arrived in Santiago began at the French-Spanish border, at either St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France or Roncesvalles in Spain. Another approximately 20% started at Sarria to just fulfill the 100-km requirement for the compostela. But no matter which route you follow, remember that the Camino is, in essence, just a long path, and aside from the 100 km requirement for a compostela, you can walk any part of any route that you wish.

How long does it take? There is no simple answer to this question. Whether on foot or bicycle, how long your pilgrimage will take will depend on many variables, such as what kind of terrain you will be crossing, how much you want to travel each day, how many rest days you wish to take during the pilgrimage and, naturally, your physical abilities. The hilly countryside near Le Puy, France, may limit walkers to 15 or 20 kilometers per day, while the flat expanses of the Spanish meseta will allow some to walk 30 or more kilometers per day. You may choose to finish your day’s walk early in the afternoon, or you may prefer to continue walking until late in the day. The distance you travel in a day will depend on your pace, as well as on how often you stop to rest, to visit cultural attractions and to talk to people. You may wish to take a day off from time to time, or you may prefer to walk every day.

El tiempo

Just about ready to go...

Okay so I am just about ready for the big trip! I have everything ready apart from this blog, which is a bit threadbare. I hope I can update it as I go along. I have been told there is plenty of wifi, but I have a feeling I will be doing a big update at the end. Not ideal! In total I will be covering 586km or 364miles. This doesn't mean anything to me! I have just looked up that this is the same as Newcastle to Brighton. Oh well... there is always the bus ;) To anyone out there preparing to go, buen camino!

Route


View Camino de Santiago - The Way of St. James in a larger map

The Way film soundtrack